Located in the Ozark Mountains of Northern Arkansas, the Buffalo National River flows 135 miles through one of the most scenic and protected regions in the country. As the first National River in the United States, this area is now widely known as the Buffalo River - National Park Region. Managed by the National Park service, if offers a yea-round destination for outdoor enthusiasts. 

The most scenic part of the Buffalo River is the upper section, especially the stretch from Ponca to Kyle’s Landing, which features iconic landmarks like Roark Bluff, Big Bluff, and Hemmed-in-Hollow. 

Roark Bluff is a much photographed area. It is a towering, massive, limestone bluff rising directly from deep green river pools and gravel bars. Standing underneath it, one can only imagine the eons of time it took to carve this grand landscape feature by the efforts of water and freezing and thawing.

Big Bluff, or Goat Trail, is the tallest bluff on Buffalo River, soaring an amazing 500 feet above the water level. Ancient cedars and wildflowers decorate the bluff face, having taken root in rock fissures and tiny pockets of soil. 

Hemmed-in-Hollow Falls is home to a breathtaking 200-foot waterfall, which is the highest waterfall between the Rocky Mountains and the Appalachians. In comparison, Missouri’s Mina Sauk Falls tumbles 135 feet down Taum Sauk Mountain.

Steel Creek is a premier access point packed with towering cliffs and great swimming holes. Be prepared, however, because the spring fed stream provides a chilly shock upon entering the water. Once acclimatized, you will relax on a hot summer day.

Ponca, Arkansas is a tiny unincorporated mountain community renowned as the gateway to the upper Buffalo National River, famous for majestic limestone bluffs, elk watching, and scenic hiking trails. 

Ponca has developed a healthy tourism industry centered around elk viewing. The best time to see elk in Ponca is early morning, just after sunrise and late afternoon near dusk. Peak rut activity begins in early September. A fall colors trip combined with elk viewing gives you the best of both worlds. I fondly recall a trip to the area in October, about 30 years ago. The colors along the Buffalo River were astounding, and the bugles of big, bull ek attempting to round up harems of cows, echoed down the foggy, early morning river bottom, creating a surreal atmosphere. 

On that same trip I took a float trip from Ponca to Kyle’s landing, a total of about 10 miles. I’m usually very prepared, but hadn’t properly done my homework. The early morning air was chilly, in the upper thirties. A touch of frost shimmered on the lower elevation vegetation. The water was a little high, promising some good runs. Little did I know how good. Less than a mile downstream from the put-in, the river dropped sharply into a hole. I handled the kayak well enough, but when I went over the steep drop, a wave of icy cold water rolled over the front of my open kayak. I did not have a spray cover. I gasped as the cold water hit me. Fairly drenched, I maneuvered a ferry around in the kayak, and stepped out the shoreline to assess my situation. 

I wasn’t totally soaked and held confidence in my quick drying clothes that all would be well. I broke out a few hand warmers and paddled harder to generate additional body heat. It worked and I avoided hypothermia. 

The views on the water proved spectacular. The fall colors were brilliant and reflecting off of the clear waters creating an artist’s palette of amazing scenes as I floated downstream. I remember the float like it was yesterday. 

Hiking to Hemmed-in Hollow Falls from the Buffalo River is a stunning and much shorter route than the grueling Compton trailhead hike. The trail starts near the Horseshoe Bend on the river and takes less than a mile of walking, making it a very popular stop for paddlers. The Compton Trailhead hike is steep and very rough, making it one of the most required rescue trails of the area.

The Buffalo flows through the Ponca Wilderness, which is popular with hikers and backpackers. It is accessed via Highway 7 and Highway 43, with the town of Ponca serving as a hub for outfitters and lodging. 

 A backcountry permit is not required, but visitors must follow Leave No Trace principles. Pets are not allowed on trails or in wilderness areas; check park rules for pet-friendly trails.

Always be aware of the fact that the river can rise quickly during periods of rainfall. 

Always have an escape plan and watch weather carefully. The river’s narrow valley can cause the water to spike up to 25 feet in less than 24 hours. Also remember that glass containers are prohibited near waterways.

Ponca offers a fair amount of decent dining options. The Rusty Barrell Supper Club is famous for hand-cut steaks, a great salad bar, and a speakeasy feel. Spots like Garrett Wrangler restaurant and Frazier’s restaurant serve classic country food like fried chicken, hot hamburger stacks, and big breakfast cinnamon rolls. If you want more food options, it is not far to Jasper, where you will find the Ozark Cafe, Jasper Pizza Company, and Low Gap Gate.

If you are an outdoorsman that likes a challenge among spectacular river scenes, Ponca, Arkansas is a unique destination. Or, if you are a bit more laid back, there are plenty of sightseeing options from behind your steering wheel. For more information about Ponca, go to: www.arkansas.com.